Rovertech 2.0

The front discs an pads for the 600 deisel i know how hard these feckers are to do neva had to do the Ti but i have to do these an knowing my luck instead of taking a day it'll be sat on blocks for a wk lol an i'll be cadgin a lift to work.

Wish me luck

What would make them difficult other than seized bolts?

Is it the pads or discs that are known to be the ball ache :

its the discs that can be a right ar5e on the 600, pad are easy

There used to be a pretty good guide on MGR forum by a guy who used to be a member here.

Pads could do with my eyes closed just the discs that are a pain and seized bolts aint what i'm worried about its trying to seperate the disc from the bearing without damaging the bearing should be fun with plenty of swearing

dont you have to split the balljoints for disks on a 600?

yes that too if they dont split then take the lower arm off to get the hub out in one be a heavy mo fo to handle tho.

id just pay someone to do it, 2 hours labour max. too cold to be splitting joints this time of year.

I'll smoke a few before hand should keep me going

Best time of year dont feel it straight away when i deposit some skin as per norm.

i have some new discs if you want (cheap)
sorry to advertise here

PJW wrote:id just pay someone to do it, 2 hours labour max. too cold to be splitting joints this time of year.

ok if you know someone you can trust...if not you're gonna be worrying they'll make the exact mistake you're worried to make and then they'll just bodge it up.

You'd really want to get a quote before giving that job to a garage. If they don't realise what is involved and get stuck into hours & hours of labour then they might try to stiff you with a very expensive bill.

daz500 wrote:You'd really want to get a quote before giving that job to a garage. If they don't realise what is involved and get stuck into hours & hours of labour then they might try to stiff you with a very expensive bill.

indeed..luckily last thing i got done was downpipe replacement and exhaust manifold gasket replacement...thanks to turbos creating heat that welds bolts and the old threading issues it took 3 and a half hours....

lucky I've known the garage owner alot of years and he charged me 50 quid

was a pain in the donkey boy standing around n making cups of tea for what i expected was gonna be a 15 min job mind hehe

Coupe100 wrote:What would make them difficult other than seized bolts?

Generally the fact you have to remove the hub carrier from the car, knock out the wheel bearing and then unbolt, change the disc and reassemble - thats if it all goes smoothly.

I couldn't get the driveshaft nut off once because some *sniff* I love u! went crazy with the air-gun tools and over tightened every bolt they touched

undoing the hub nut on my dads 600 was a mission, my breaker bar was bending, 3ft halfords job...

When you press the bearing holder out, dont press against the inner part of the bearing, or you will kill it.

Instead, as mgjohn suggested, unscrew the bearing retainer, and then using an old socket, hit the bolts from behind, and push the whole thing out the hub... you will need a mallet, not a hammer, and some bricks/blocks to hold the assembly off the ground...

Well bein my first time i got the worst side done in just under 2 hrs and only had to hit the bearing 4 times and out it popped but not in one piece as it should,the internal piece came out easily leaving the ball bearings in the hub itself and the outer part with the wheel studs just came out.

Was very careful on re fitting not to break the bearings although when re fitting it pushed the sleeve out the other side if you know what i mean but a fair few gentle taps around the edges with the hub nut socket got it back in nicely now only the other side to do.

Scott i know what you mean about tightness i'll pop some pics up of the crap discs and length of bar i had to use to get it undone,least i didn't break my bar like i did on the Ti and that still didn't budge.

Bit weary on doing the other side as its gone pretty smoothly so far and i dont really do pretty smoothly so will be p1ssed off if i break owt on this side

I will only ever take my car to a garage if they will do the job to a quoted price. Simply not writting a "blank cheque" for no one. Mechanics are supposed to be trained to know how to work around seized broken bolts etc and have the tools to do it so shouldnt spend to long.

Saying that theres no need for a garage for me any more unless I'm really pressed for time, as I just do all my own work. The only job I opted out for was for a full polybush upgrade. Garaged quoted a full days labour, it ended up taken them 2 &bit so I was quids in there.

ptomo wrote:Well bein my first time i got the worst side done in just under 2 hrs and only had to hit the bearing 4 times and out it popped but not in one piece as it should,the internal piece came out easily leaving the ball bearings in the hub itself and the outer part with the wheel studs just came out.

Did you hit the nuts like scott said? If you just hit the inner part of the bearing you will push the race apart and it will come out like you described - the trick is to undo the botls that secure the wheelbearing to the hub and hit them in turn, to push the bearing out.

Was very careful on re fitting not to break the bearings although when re fitting it pushed the sleeve out the other side if you know what i mean but a fair few gentle taps around the edges with the hub nut socket got it back in nicely now only the other side to do.

You reassembled with the original bearing, after it had come apart? I'm really not sure how well that will work tbh

Scott i know what you mean about tightness i'll pop some pics up of the crap discs and length of bar i had to use to get it undone,least i didn't break my bar like i did on the Ti and that still didn't budge.

I got a big breaker bar and a length of gas pipe and just stand on it, seems to undo them fine - helps if you are a fat bugger like me tho

Bit weary on doing the other side as its gone pretty smoothly so far and i dont really do pretty smoothly so will be p1ssed off if i break owt on this side

You need to use the nut method mate, have a search on here - seriously it is the only way to do it.

Null_Byte wrote:

Coupe100 wrote:What would make them difficult other than seized bolts?

Generally the fact you have to remove the hub carrier from the car, knock out the wheel bearing and then unbolt, change the disc and reassemble - thats if it all goes smoothly.

Down to bad design then - that seem excessive for changing a brake disc.

Coupe100 wrote:

Null_Byte wrote:

Coupe100 wrote:What would make them difficult other than seized bolts?

Generally the fact you have to remove the hub carrier from the car, knock out the wheel bearing and then unbolt, change the disc and reassemble - thats if it all goes smoothly.

Down to bad design then - that seem excessive for changing a brake disc.

I wouldn't say bad design.

The honda/rover 600 design setup is actually superior in putting down the power over a lot of FWD designs. It is also no doubt a production managers wet dream.

However for joe blogs that has to service the rhubarb thing - its a complete ballache.

I read up last night mate before doing it and yes hitting the nuts i forgot to do knew i would miss somethin out.

Put i back together an no more squeaky pig brakes no humming of a bearing either and brakes work so think i got lucky with the bearing thing an if not the car be off road in less than a month as be in the conversion then hopefully jus need a crane again to pull engine out once more an sort out the block.

Anyways a couple of pics we like pics describes things better than words in some cases

Firstly my breaker bar wasn't good enough so had to put a bit more length via mini scaffi bar and my pry bar too...



Safe to say this disc is fecked and the one thats been constantly squeakin an doin my nut in....



The inch an half surface is a hump in the disc nicely shaped by the pad if you can call it a pad that is lol...



Outer pad...



Inner pad and was even thinner at the bootm of the pad oops...



Now i can have quiet journeys once again lol

Tut tut on the state of that disc Paul still nice new ones on now eh

I know i thought it was a sticky caliper till i removed it an found a hump back bridge on my disc lol not the only thing my cv boot now in 2 halves but only gotta last a month or so then be off road an all work be done in the sunshine (if we get some this year) ready for winter as the turbo be comin off road then maybe lol.

Least i can say i had the experience now lol an can help others less fortunate.

The way that i did it with the bearing aint that a safer way rather than trying to get the whole casing out as that is where i think the damage would be done and only took 4 hits to get it out rather than smashing/pressing it all out just a thought

ptomo wrote:The way that i did it with the bearing aint that a safer way rather than trying to get the whole casing out as that is where i think the damage would be done and only took 4 hits to get it out rather than smashing/pressing it all out just a thought

In short, no lol.

The bearing is not designed to come apart at all - When this happened to mine I replaced the bearings with new ones and ended up having to grind part of the old one off the hub shaft.

The entire bearing will come out of the hub reasonably easy by tapping on the bolt heads with a suitable socket and won't damage the bearing at all.

Once removed you can copperslip the inside of the hub to make future removal a piece of cake. I've done several like this and it is the simplest easiest way of doing it without causing any damage. MGJohn and Scott also have used this method just fine.