Rovertech 2.0

Oh no they don't if they've been treated correctly!

Lost count of the large number of alloy wheels on my cars over the years damaged in this way by rim clip weights. Even when carefully fitted, it's simply a matter of time before these clips cause problems with pressure losses.

One of the 16" OE alloy wheels on my Rover 620ti loses half its pressure in a few days. Got it off and the lead balance weights clipped to the inner rim out of sight had damaged the seal allowing pressure to progressively escape from two locations where the weights were. Here's a close up of the parts involved. If you look closely to the left of the removed weight, you can see a line of bubbles between the alloy rim and tyre bead:



This BAD practice is really annoying and costly. When buying a new tyre I insist on self adhesive weights if needed, not rim clip ones.

I have lost count of the times my tyres have gone flat after being left for a few days, especially on the landie.

Indeed, i now always tell the tyre shop to fit stick on weights when having new tyres Apart from the already mentioned reason, clip on weights look sh1t too.
Just going off topic, but still on the subject of tyres/tyre shops.When i had the tyres on my 400 replaced, the guy (kid ) who was doing the fitting had a sandwich in one hand, and was trying to fit me tyres with the other hand (this was a reputable shop too) I unpolitely told him to either eat his dinner or fit the damn tyre
What made me even more p***ed off, was that they were not cheap tyres, they were Bridgestone potenza S03s, on alloys
GARY

I hope he got tetanus and his law locked.

MWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

no more sarnies for him.

This might be why my offside rear keeps dropping to 24psi...

On the subject of tyres,
I noticed a lot of people dont realise that a tyre has to be fitted a certain way.

Copy Paste From http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml

RUNOUT AND BALANCING:
Aside from being inflated for carrying loads, tires need to be round to work properly.
Wheels also need to be round. However, due to manufacturing constraints, neither may be,
exactly. So, wheel manufacturers tend to place the valve core hole (or some other mark)
at the lowest point of the wheel. Tire manufacturers, on the other hand, tend to place a
mark, usually a red dot, on the wheel's highest pint. The hope is if you put the higest
point of the tire on the lowest point of the wheel,
they will cancel out and you'll end up with a round wheel/tire combo.

Chances are these high/low points won't cancel exactly, how close does a
wheel/tire have to be to be considered round? Generally, passenger cars are designed to
tolerate 0.030" radial or lateral runout. Trucks and SUV type vehicles (with larger tires)
can usually handle 0.060" radial and lateral runout. Any more than this
and it may be possible to re-mount the tire in a different position on the
rim or place it on another wheel. If the runout is not within spec, that tire should
probably be replaced. (I didn't know about this and had a pair of bias ply tires that
had 0.250-0.375" radial runout - they were not fun to drive at speed).

Now you have a round wheel/tire, but it needs to be balanced. How close to
perfect can you expect the balance to be? The general guideline is within 0.25 oz.

My god, and i thought all tyre fitters were strategicly shaved monkeys, earning extra peanut money.



Saying that how many of them would actually know this; not alot i would imagine. you are indeed a guru.

And just to prove.