Buying road (push) bikes?
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Buying road (push) bikes?
Myself and a couple of workmates have started riding to work regularly, however all own mountain bikes of various ages/quality.
This kind of makes it hard work. Good for exercise, but a little annoying as a mode of transport. I cant help thinking having a road bike would be better as we'll be more likely to continue and maybe go every day rather than the 3 out of 5 we're managing a week now.
We're 27, 26 and 36 years old.... and get overtaken by 50+yr olds on road/racers going twice as fast with little effort!
Aaanyway. I've approached out HR dept at work and it looks like we may be getting approved for the government cycle to work scheme.... if this gets approved we'll likely all be getting new road bikes. Bought by the company, 'hired' by us for a year, then bought cheaply off them... saving us VAT and PAYE/NI etc.
I think the absolute max we'd be allowed to spend would be £500. Personally I'd like to stay nearer £400.
So, where's the best places to look for road bikes, new?
A couple of us had a go on a 2010 Giant Deft 3.5 this arvo, which seemed nice enough. We're not going to be racing, have no interest in dressing up in lycra and will be commuting with a backpack, carrying stuff back and forth, so we're not too fussed about the expensive bikes which save 25g or whatever and go 1mph faster, we just want something that's a significant improvement on a mountain bike and is of decent quality.
Was one of these - http://activesport.co.uk/shop/article_0 ... 230.001%26
Although they do a cheaper one which is a little heavier - http://activesport.co.uk/shop/article_0 ... 200.001%26
Any other models?
There's also the hybrid route, which seem to be mountain bike sort of frames with thinner wheels... or we also saw one which was a racer frame with slightly wider wheels which wont have a fit on gravel. Not sure whether these may be better either... full on road/racer too much trouble for a commute? We do end up bumping up kerbs at various points.
So.... thoughts?
Alex
This kind of makes it hard work. Good for exercise, but a little annoying as a mode of transport. I cant help thinking having a road bike would be better as we'll be more likely to continue and maybe go every day rather than the 3 out of 5 we're managing a week now.
We're 27, 26 and 36 years old.... and get overtaken by 50+yr olds on road/racers going twice as fast with little effort!
Aaanyway. I've approached out HR dept at work and it looks like we may be getting approved for the government cycle to work scheme.... if this gets approved we'll likely all be getting new road bikes. Bought by the company, 'hired' by us for a year, then bought cheaply off them... saving us VAT and PAYE/NI etc.
I think the absolute max we'd be allowed to spend would be £500. Personally I'd like to stay nearer £400.
So, where's the best places to look for road bikes, new?
A couple of us had a go on a 2010 Giant Deft 3.5 this arvo, which seemed nice enough. We're not going to be racing, have no interest in dressing up in lycra and will be commuting with a backpack, carrying stuff back and forth, so we're not too fussed about the expensive bikes which save 25g or whatever and go 1mph faster, we just want something that's a significant improvement on a mountain bike and is of decent quality.
Was one of these - http://activesport.co.uk/shop/article_0 ... 230.001%26
Although they do a cheaper one which is a little heavier - http://activesport.co.uk/shop/article_0 ... 200.001%26
Any other models?
There's also the hybrid route, which seem to be mountain bike sort of frames with thinner wheels... or we also saw one which was a racer frame with slightly wider wheels which wont have a fit on gravel. Not sure whether these may be better either... full on road/racer too much trouble for a commute? We do end up bumping up kerbs at various points.
So.... thoughts?
Alex
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
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vinny19791
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
ive had a few bikes this way through royal mail
cycletowork scheme
halfords ftw
cycletowork scheme
halfords ftw

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Vard66
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Cheapest way is to simply buy some road rims and tyres and bang 'em onto the bike you're using at the moment - though if it's a full suspension you'll still just be working against yourself.
Vard.
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
if your just riding on tarmac go for a racer they are rapid but if your route varies then a hybrid is the best option and personally i would recommend specialized ive got a hardrock sport its a MTB but its still rapid on whatever surface i chose to ride 

Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Yeah, this is the other option. I was going to do this, but it'll cost me say £55-£60 in new tyres and inner tubes for some decent ones. If it's new wheels too then it's even more expensive. Cheaper than a new bike, but possibly money just spent on bit of a crappy cheap (£150) bike.
It's not full suspension my present one, it's just front suspension.
The other issue with it though is it's 19" frame, which I was advised to get at the time. With the saddle up, it's fine a lot of the time, but when cruising in top gear the frame is too small to lean forward, I cant get my head down very well as the handlebars are too close. Therefore, I do notice the wind a lot more as I have to sit more upright (as I guess you're supposed to on a MTB). Wish I'd got a 21" or so as it'd be a bit longer.
We went to Halfords this arvo, had a look. There's two Carreras in the sub £500 price range, but for some reason we both got the impression they were not as good as the Giants or other brands. Just looked a bit cheap somehow.
One thing I dont understand on any of these things are the amount of friggin gears bikes have. I have 21 at the mo, I use about 8 of them. Some of the ones we have seen have 24. WTF.... why? They're just too close together to actually have a point surely?
It's not full suspension my present one, it's just front suspension.
The other issue with it though is it's 19" frame, which I was advised to get at the time. With the saddle up, it's fine a lot of the time, but when cruising in top gear the frame is too small to lean forward, I cant get my head down very well as the handlebars are too close. Therefore, I do notice the wind a lot more as I have to sit more upright (as I guess you're supposed to on a MTB). Wish I'd got a 21" or so as it'd be a bit longer.
We went to Halfords this arvo, had a look. There's two Carreras in the sub £500 price range, but for some reason we both got the impression they were not as good as the Giants or other brands. Just looked a bit cheap somehow.
One thing I dont understand on any of these things are the amount of friggin gears bikes have. I have 21 at the mo, I use about 8 of them. Some of the ones we have seen have 24. WTF.... why? They're just too close together to actually have a point surely?
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Well, usually I do end up riding on various surfaces, but the commute is pretty road/tarmac. We started off taking some other off road routes and using the pavement cycle paths, however over the last few weeks have ended up just going on the road. It's FAR quicker, the surface is more comfortable. I used to get annoyed at bikes on the road when there's a cyclepath, but after using it, I totally understand.Readie86 wrote:if your just riding on tarmac go for a racer they are rapid but if your route varies then a hybrid is the best option and personally i would recommend specialized ive got a hardrock sport its a MTB but its still rapid on whatever surface i chose to ride
So, no off-road on the commute, but as I say, usually end up going up/down kerbs, usually when cars sit in traffic 6" from the kerb, so just go up and round the car, then bump back down.
Interestingly, I average the ride in about 40 mins on my bike now, have done it in 34. Pretty sure on a racer I'll be around 25-30. In the car it takes 20-25 on a good day, but often takes over 45mins. So, it's actually quicker on a bike more often than not, even with a crap bike.
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
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vinny19791
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Carrera Virtuoso for me


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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
i find having a larger frame than im advised to with the seat lowered alot comfier to ride as the frame is longer, the extra gears come in handy when tackling steep hills or loose gravel if it was my choice i would go with the carrera they come well equipped as standard

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618ireland
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
I bought a road bike 8 years ago when I was in my last year in college, it was about €500/£400 back then, it's a Raleigh Aveo, Cromoly framed thing. Used to cycle between 20 and 50 miles on it on Saturdays. Anyway, was thinking of getting back into doing some cycling for the Summer and the thing is still perfect in the shed. Looked up a few forums, apparently it's a fairly sh1t bike. But I found it fine and still reckon it would do the job fine. So I think a road bike for £400 would be perfect for you, ideal for commuting and once you use some common sense and bunny hop off kerbs rather than slap her down wheel by wheel there should be no bother, bit of mechanical sympathy, which you have 
As a young lad I used to mountain bike to school, road bikes weren't cool then so we all had mountain bikes, grand for that but really anything over 3 miles and the road bike wins once there are no really steep hills.
As a young lad I used to mountain bike to school, road bikes weren't cool then so we all had mountain bikes, grand for that but really anything over 3 miles and the road bike wins once there are no really steep hills.
1990 414si, 1995 214SEi, 2005 Mondeo, 1999 618, 1995 Celica SSII,
1997 400 D, 1993 Prelude, 1992 W124 250d, 1993 520i,
1997 216 Tomcat, 2002 MG ZT 180+, 2008 Grand Cherokee 3.0CRD

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Punx0r
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
If there's two of you making the same journey then get a tandem! Same effort, 50% faster. Winning!
Anthony | 1997 800 Vitesse Coupe, 1985 SD1 Vitesse
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Interesting thread, i just started rideing my bike to work
I have a Claud Butler mountainbike thats about 10 years old, bought it to get to work when i was an apprentice.... but as soon as i learned to drive the bike went in to hibernation
I currently only live 3 miles from work, doing the daily commute i the Ti in stop start traffic drinks the fuel, and tbh i could use the exersise
so i thought meh, give it a go !
I can reliably get to work in 17 mins on the bike, no traffic worrys, obviously if it pees it down in the morning i will take the car
My bike still has nobbly tyres, i was wondering if some road tyres would make it a little easyier, im intreaged about this cycle to work scheme too ? tbh i have saved at least £50.00 in petrol in 2 weeks
I have a Claud Butler mountainbike thats about 10 years old, bought it to get to work when i was an apprentice.... but as soon as i learned to drive the bike went in to hibernation
I currently only live 3 miles from work, doing the daily commute i the Ti in stop start traffic drinks the fuel, and tbh i could use the exersise
I can reliably get to work in 17 mins on the bike, no traffic worrys, obviously if it pees it down in the morning i will take the car
My bike still has nobbly tyres, i was wondering if some road tyres would make it a little easyier, im intreaged about this cycle to work scheme too ? tbh i have saved at least £50.00 in petrol in 2 weeks
Dan Overton, 2002 MG ZS Turbo.

Vard66 wrote: our feelings about saloons shall never be the wedge between us

Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Well, if you're interested in the info, here's the government info - http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/sustainable/c ... kguidance/
I think a lot of companies go through this company - http://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/ which I think do all the organisation. It's what I think my company will use if they approve it.
There's a calculator on there to work out the actual costs, depends if your company will claim back the VAT etc etc. Seems that the optimum way of doing it for me is on, say a £500 bike, after the tax savings etc I pay £284, then after a year pay £15 and take ownership of the bike 3 years later. Bit odd, you end up not actually owning it until the very end, but it makes no difference unless your company suddenly has a desire to go into trading second hand bikes, lol.
If it doesn't get approved at my place, I'll just get some skinny tyres, but it'd be nice to have a proper road bike. Mountain bikes are the default choice in this country for everyday use it seems, but tbh, when you're being overtaken by pensioners on racers it kind of shows how turd they are.
Also, you should be able to do it quicker than 17 minutes.. that's 10.5mph. My commute is 8.5miles and as I say, my best time is 34mins, so 15mph.
Apparently on a road bike cruising without too much wind should be in the 22-26mph range and from the speed they go by me, I'd quite believe it.
The problem is, it'd be even more useful in the winter as the traffic is worse then, however I dont know if I really want to face it in the dark and wet.
I think a lot of companies go through this company - http://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/ which I think do all the organisation. It's what I think my company will use if they approve it.
There's a calculator on there to work out the actual costs, depends if your company will claim back the VAT etc etc. Seems that the optimum way of doing it for me is on, say a £500 bike, after the tax savings etc I pay £284, then after a year pay £15 and take ownership of the bike 3 years later. Bit odd, you end up not actually owning it until the very end, but it makes no difference unless your company suddenly has a desire to go into trading second hand bikes, lol.
If it doesn't get approved at my place, I'll just get some skinny tyres, but it'd be nice to have a proper road bike. Mountain bikes are the default choice in this country for everyday use it seems, but tbh, when you're being overtaken by pensioners on racers it kind of shows how turd they are.
Also, you should be able to do it quicker than 17 minutes.. that's 10.5mph. My commute is 8.5miles and as I say, my best time is 34mins, so 15mph.
Apparently on a road bike cruising without too much wind should be in the 22-26mph range and from the speed they go by me, I'd quite believe it.
The problem is, it'd be even more useful in the winter as the traffic is worse then, however I dont know if I really want to face it in the dark and wet.
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Yes but im not exactly fitSheaf wrote: Also, you should be able to do it quicker than 17 minutes.. that's 10.5mph. My commute is 8.5miles and as I say, my best time is 34mins, so 15mph.
Also this is why i was wondering about road tyres !
Im sure i will get quicker, but one of the big issues is the bridges... now there is no way im rideing on the road going under the railway bridges in rush hour
Dan Overton, 2002 MG ZS Turbo.

Vard66 wrote: our feelings about saloons shall never be the wedge between us

Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Well, I obviously usually get up and shower, have breakfast, then drive in... however now I get up at the same time, ride in and shower/have breakfast at work. Use their water and heating
In fact, those of us who have been doing it were asked what other equipment we want for the shower rooms... the MD wants to help us out with any benches/cupboards/towel rails we need, which is quite nice. The company is all pro 'green' initiatives so getting people on bikes is a good thing for them, makes them look good to various people.
It's actually less hassle when you know everything is at work, just roll out of bed, chuck on some shorts, stick lunch in a bag and hop on the bike
Like I say, we took all the cyclepath routes, crossing roads, trying to keep away from cars, but it just takes so much longer. Going on the road is more direct every time and a nicer surface, you do have to be very aware though.
Work will give us £20 towards a helmet each too, so we're going to do that as although you look like a c0ck wearing one, I cant help thinking it's a sensible idea. Luckily they have them on 3 for 2 in Halfords at the mo, so we can get 3 x £45 helmets for a cost of £10 each. Win.
In fact, those of us who have been doing it were asked what other equipment we want for the shower rooms... the MD wants to help us out with any benches/cupboards/towel rails we need, which is quite nice. The company is all pro 'green' initiatives so getting people on bikes is a good thing for them, makes them look good to various people.
It's actually less hassle when you know everything is at work, just roll out of bed, chuck on some shorts, stick lunch in a bag and hop on the bike
Like I say, we took all the cyclepath routes, crossing roads, trying to keep away from cars, but it just takes so much longer. Going on the road is more direct every time and a nicer surface, you do have to be very aware though.
Work will give us £20 towards a helmet each too, so we're going to do that as although you look like a c0ck wearing one, I cant help thinking it's a sensible idea. Luckily they have them on 3 for 2 in Halfords at the mo, so we can get 3 x £45 helmets for a cost of £10 each. Win.
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
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Punx0r
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
I really ought to get a helmet... Broken limbs can be set right, but a good bang to the coconut and it could be the sunshine bus forever more.
I've got an old, undersized, solid-framed mountain bike I dug out a couple of years ago. That had normal (1.75"?) knobbly tyres until I swapped one for a road tyre. It's still an inch wide (massive compared to some racer tyres) but it made the bike significantly faster. So yeah, I think you'd see a real benefit from swapping tyres even on a suspension bike.
I've got an old, undersized, solid-framed mountain bike I dug out a couple of years ago. That had normal (1.75"?) knobbly tyres until I swapped one for a road tyre. It's still an inch wide (massive compared to some racer tyres) but it made the bike significantly faster. So yeah, I think you'd see a real benefit from swapping tyres even on a suspension bike.
Anthony | 1997 800 Vitesse Coupe, 1985 SD1 Vitesse
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Mine has front suspension only, think i will just buy some road tyres...
I would use the shower at work sheaf (yes we do have one
) but people can just walk in sooo...
I would use the shower at work sheaf (yes we do have one
Dan Overton, 2002 MG ZS Turbo.

Vard66 wrote: our feelings about saloons shall never be the wedge between us

Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Dan Overton, 2002 MG ZS Turbo.

Vard66 wrote: our feelings about saloons shall never be the wedge between us

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radddogg
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
http://www.rt2468abcd.r8technology.co.uk/viewtopi ... 5&t=126907Punx0r wrote:I really ought to get a helmet... Broken limbs can be set right, but a good bang to the coconut and it could be the sunshine bus forever more.
You will notice a massive difference. Pump them up to 60+psi and the rolling resistance is vastly reducedDin wrote:Mine has front suspension only, think i will just buy some road tyres...
Swnt frpm my iphonr

Punx0r wrote:S&M always comes immediately to mind.

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russ220
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
I'd advise a hybrid, a full road bike is quite easy to get a puncture compared to a hybrid for example, that and I find the riding position much more relaxed.
I used to commute on my jump bike or if it's a really nice day the BMX, though 6mile on a BMX certainly takes it's toll! Before work moved 20mile away cross country my route was a nightmare by car, 45mins of stop start so even on the bmx I could do it in 20/25min though it involved some dangerous roads so most of the time I was hopping back up the curb or over piles of binbags/smashed glass/fly tipped stuff scattered over the floor (Birmingham suburbs for you)
I'd certainly advise some form of anti-puncture tape to line your tyre with, nothing more disheartening than getting a flat
I used to commute on my jump bike or if it's a really nice day the BMX, though 6mile on a BMX certainly takes it's toll! Before work moved 20mile away cross country my route was a nightmare by car, 45mins of stop start so even on the bmx I could do it in 20/25min though it involved some dangerous roads so most of the time I was hopping back up the curb or over piles of binbags/smashed glass/fly tipped stuff scattered over the floor (Birmingham suburbs for you)
I'd certainly advise some form of anti-puncture tape to line your tyre with, nothing more disheartening than getting a flat
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
60 psiradddogg wrote:You will notice a massive difference. Pump them up to 60+psi and the rolling resistance is vastly reducedDin wrote:Mine has front suspension only, think i will just buy some road tyres...
On a budget (as always) would these be ok with the same inner tubes ?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_242553
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_242553
Ahh
Cool, i may and get theseThese will fit but not ideal, they would be easier to fit with smaller tubes.
Dan Overton, 2002 MG ZS Turbo.

Vard66 wrote: our feelings about saloons shall never be the wedge between us

Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
i've just built my own bike as the full suspention is a night mere ,
has big slicks and down hill rims for going off curbs and some big pot holes
nice and light has carbon fiber only 8 gears internal hub does the job
road bike will be quicker but these some big holes on the way to work
all for around £800

has big slicks and down hill rims for going off curbs and some big pot holes
nice and light has carbon fiber only 8 gears internal hub does the job
road bike will be quicker but these some big holes on the way to work
all for around £800

turbo's recond and balanced
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Punx0r
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
I've not heard of anti-puncture tape before - sounds like a good idea. I've had no end of punctures... One time I pulled a hyperdermic needle out of the tyre
Even on knobbly tyres I inflate them to the max pressure (usually about 45psi). The road tyre I got takes 90psi and it does make a difference. You get a sore botty though
Even on knobbly tyres I inflate them to the max pressure (usually about 45psi). The road tyre I got takes 90psi and it does make a difference. You get a sore botty though
Anthony | 1997 800 Vitesse Coupe, 1985 SD1 Vitesse
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alexcornwall
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
www.paulscycles.co.uk is a good site to see some deals...
Rotating weight is the key fairly obviously.
Road bikes are quicker and if you're intending on just cycling on very smooth roads only then would be fine. However i borrowed my brothers carbon road bike to make to ride to work the other day and couldn't stand it, I made it in good time but due to poor road surfaces i didn't enjoy it and was rattled to bits. They're also pretty unstable and stopping in the wet is a complete nightmare.
I'd look for lightweight mtb/hybrid solutions myself. If you need any second hand bike bits in the future give me a pm
Rotating weight is the key fairly obviously.
Road bikes are quicker and if you're intending on just cycling on very smooth roads only then would be fine. However i borrowed my brothers carbon road bike to make to ride to work the other day and couldn't stand it, I made it in good time but due to poor road surfaces i didn't enjoy it and was rattled to bits. They're also pretty unstable and stopping in the wet is a complete nightmare.
I'd look for lightweight mtb/hybrid solutions myself. If you need any second hand bike bits in the future give me a pm
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618ireland
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Sheaf wrote:
Also, you should be able to do it quicker than 17 minutes.. that's 10.5mph. My commute is 8.5miles and as I say, my best time is 34mins, so 15mph.
Apparently on a road bike cruising without too much wind should be in the 22-26mph range and from the speed they go by me, I'd quite believe it.
You won't average 22 mph on a road bike over 8/9 miles if they're are more than a couple of sets of traffic lights. You really won't take much off your 34 mins personal best I reckon. You certainly won't be knocking anywhere near 50% off it which a 22 mph average speed would give.
1990 414si, 1995 214SEi, 2005 Mondeo, 1999 618, 1995 Celica SSII,
1997 400 D, 1993 Prelude, 1992 W124 250d, 1993 520i,
1997 216 Tomcat, 2002 MG ZT 180+, 2008 Grand Cherokee 3.0CRD

1997 400 D, 1993 Prelude, 1992 W124 250d, 1993 520i,
1997 216 Tomcat, 2002 MG ZT 180+, 2008 Grand Cherokee 3.0CRD

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Geo_coupe
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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
cyclocross bike ftw if your using it for commuting, drop bars and 700c wheels like a road bike but the frames are slightly shorter and you dont end up with the seat away up and leaning down over the bars which i find extremely uncomfortable after a few miles, i end up straining my neck trying to see where im going. And itll be up to some mild XC riding too, just dont try and jump it 

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Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
just some pics of my two beauty's
my 09 specialized hardrock sport 24 speed light weight hollow ally frame truvative isoflow crank twin shimano mech disks, shimano trigger gears, rock shox forks everything else is specialized

my barracuda jacobat jump bike 14" hollow ally frame 21 speed shimano crank and gears + front disk, rear v brake and suntour front shox

my 09 specialized hardrock sport 24 speed light weight hollow ally frame truvative isoflow crank twin shimano mech disks, shimano trigger gears, rock shox forks everything else is specialized

my barracuda jacobat jump bike 14" hollow ally frame 21 speed shimano crank and gears + front disk, rear v brake and suntour front shox


Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
618ireland wrote:Sheaf wrote:
Also, you should be able to do it quicker than 17 minutes.. that's 10.5mph. My commute is 8.5miles and as I say, my best time is 34mins, so 15mph.
Apparently on a road bike cruising without too much wind should be in the 22-26mph range and from the speed they go by me, I'd quite believe it.
You won't average 22 mph on a road bike over 8/9 miles if they're are more than a couple of sets of traffic lights. You really won't take much off your 34 mins personal best I reckon. You certainly won't be knocking anywhere near 50% off it which a 22 mph average speed would give.
I must new able to do it quicker tho, the road bikes fly past me every day!
Anyway, who stops at lights on a bike?
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
-
alexcornwall
- Rovertech Kiloposter
- Posts: 1489
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:36 pm
- feedback: 981998
- Location: Cornwall
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
true, traffic lights are for cars only tbh!
Got a bike for sale atm if you're interested in just buying one cash, nice n light!

Got a bike for sale atm if you're interested in just buying one cash, nice n light!

Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
I think somebody stole half of it dude.... 
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
To all those who are suggesting hybrids, what sort of hybrid?
The thing is, there seems to be loads of this type of thing -

Which, to me, looks like a mountain bike with skinnier wheels. It's basically a mountain bike frame right? Maybe a softer saddle etc. Looks nice, but I'm not sure whether it's worth the money over just putting thinner tyres on my present bike.
They're relatively cheap (£300-£400ish) but I'm guessing that's because they're not as good? One of my mates used his wifes one the other week and although it was a little easier than his mountain bike didn't really find it leagues apart.
Or, there's this type...

Which, is apparently called a 'cyclocross' bike, which seems to be a road bike, beefed up a little to take the kerbs and a bit of slippery surfaces. Slightly knobbly, slightly wider tyres, but still thinner than a mountain bike, the option of going low to get out the wind.
This, to me, seems ideal, however the prices are way up there, £200 more than the road bikes start at, which is out of the question
At 6', I'm on the crossover point of med/large and large frame sizes. I'm wondering if a road bike, with a large frame would be more comfy... I wouldn't have to put the saddle up so high and therefore wouldn't have my arse stuck up high looking at the ground.
Also.... I really dont understand the whole thing with disk brakes
I have (I assume) cheap basic brakes on my present bike and can lock the back wheel or send myself over the handlebars with the front. Surely there's no need for anything better, esp given that thinner wheels will have less friction (kind of the point), so you're just going to lock them?!? Seems overkill and unnecessary expense/complication.
The thing is, there seems to be loads of this type of thing -

Which, to me, looks like a mountain bike with skinnier wheels. It's basically a mountain bike frame right? Maybe a softer saddle etc. Looks nice, but I'm not sure whether it's worth the money over just putting thinner tyres on my present bike.
They're relatively cheap (£300-£400ish) but I'm guessing that's because they're not as good? One of my mates used his wifes one the other week and although it was a little easier than his mountain bike didn't really find it leagues apart.
Or, there's this type...

Which, is apparently called a 'cyclocross' bike, which seems to be a road bike, beefed up a little to take the kerbs and a bit of slippery surfaces. Slightly knobbly, slightly wider tyres, but still thinner than a mountain bike, the option of going low to get out the wind.
This, to me, seems ideal, however the prices are way up there, £200 more than the road bikes start at, which is out of the question
At 6', I'm on the crossover point of med/large and large frame sizes. I'm wondering if a road bike, with a large frame would be more comfy... I wouldn't have to put the saddle up so high and therefore wouldn't have my arse stuck up high looking at the ground.
Also.... I really dont understand the whole thing with disk brakes
I have (I assume) cheap basic brakes on my present bike and can lock the back wheel or send myself over the handlebars with the front. Surely there's no need for anything better, esp given that thinner wheels will have less friction (kind of the point), so you're just going to lock them?!? Seems overkill and unnecessary expense/complication.
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
-
alexcornwall
- Rovertech Kiloposter
- Posts: 1489
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:36 pm
- feedback: 981998
- Location: Cornwall
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
disc brakes are an off road thing tbh. dirt stays away from the rotors
For road use anything shall do, either road type calipers or the v-brakes you probvably currently have. bear in mind with those road bikes the position you have to be in to have decent use of your handling and brakes
my advice would be to go to your local halfords and have a ride of all the different types 
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
I found, on my quick go that holding the bars on the top, on the curved bit on top of the brakes was quite comfy and not too low. Holding the bars right down low was a bit too low if you want to look around, but really gets you out the wind, and holding in conventional style, just across was odd as you cant touch the brakes and your hands feel too close together.
How to the carreras compare to the Giants then? (as these seem to be the only two types anywhere near the budget)
Oh, Giant also do the 'Rapid' which is apparently a 'Defy' frame, wheels, gearset etc but basically with tourer/straight bars.
This was £500 for the same spec as the £525 Defy, so basically £25 off and straight bars and appropriate gear/brake levers.

Ah... the options, and tbh I'm not sure how I can actually tell without doing a good few miles on one.
I personally think straight bars which bend round and have long bits that stick out so you can get lower would be great. I had these on my old mountain bike and it was great as you could get low.... couldn't touch the brakes then, but you generally didn't need to at that point. They dont seem to do these any more, the best you can get it bolt on 3" bits (as on the bike above), which aren't as good as the comfy, bent 6-7" bits on my old bars, you could sit your wrist in the corners.
How to the carreras compare to the Giants then? (as these seem to be the only two types anywhere near the budget)
Oh, Giant also do the 'Rapid' which is apparently a 'Defy' frame, wheels, gearset etc but basically with tourer/straight bars.
This was £500 for the same spec as the £525 Defy, so basically £25 off and straight bars and appropriate gear/brake levers.

Ah... the options, and tbh I'm not sure how I can actually tell without doing a good few miles on one.
I personally think straight bars which bend round and have long bits that stick out so you can get lower would be great. I had these on my old mountain bike and it was great as you could get low.... couldn't touch the brakes then, but you generally didn't need to at that point. They dont seem to do these any more, the best you can get it bolt on 3" bits (as on the bike above), which aren't as good as the comfy, bent 6-7" bits on my old bars, you could sit your wrist in the corners.
1999 Honda Accord Type R - 2157cc of VTEC 4dr fun 
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
2011 Mazda 6 Sport 2.2 Diesel - For the days I want torque and economy
-
Vard66
- RT GOD
- Posts: 5499
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:49 am
- feedback: 850710
- Location: Near Swindon, Wiltshire.
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Hm.alexcornwall wrote:true, traffic lights are for cars only tbh!
Got a bike for sale atm if you're interested in just buying one cash, nice n light!
Spec, and what're you looking for for it, Alex?
Vard.
1994 Rover 820 Vitesse fastback
1995 Discovery 3.9 V8
<< Vard's Vouch Thread >>
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1994 Rover 820 Vitesse fastback
1995 Discovery 3.9 V8
<< Vard's Vouch Thread >>
______________________________________________________________________
Re: Buying road (push) bikes?
Right, well i reserved those cheapie road tyres at £11.99 each and went down to halfords to pick em up.... guy dissapears out the back to go find em, and couldnt
So he offered me an alternative for the same price.... which i gladly exepted
These http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 42553#dtab
They came with free inner tubes too, but they where still 26x 1.9/2.5 which was the same as the ones in the origional tyres anyway... plus the new ones had a stupid valve design... so i simply put them to one side and used my old ones (they had no previous repairs).

So anyway, old tyres look like this..

New ones..


Comparison on the bike.


And all done

If it doesnt rain i will give it a go on monday
These http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 42553#dtab
They came with free inner tubes too, but they where still 26x 1.9/2.5 which was the same as the ones in the origional tyres anyway... plus the new ones had a stupid valve design... so i simply put them to one side and used my old ones (they had no previous repairs).

So anyway, old tyres look like this..

New ones..


Comparison on the bike.


And all done

If it doesnt rain i will give it a go on monday
Dan Overton, 2002 MG ZS Turbo.

Vard66 wrote: our feelings about saloons shall never be the wedge between us

