My new toy

xr4x4 · Post by **xr4x4** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:19 pm

goooorr that sounds great...where can i get one.!

mach1rob · Post by **mach1rob** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:23 pm

Just listen to that vid, then cast your mind back to the opening scenes of 'Christine'

Post by **Punx0r** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 11:45 pm

Ok, fan belt tightened and alternator charging now. Although a replacement battery will need fitting as the old one is just to weak to sustain 10 sec of crankking.

I had the wiper motor off and it worked ok, so cleaned up the electric connections and refitted. It's got torque but the wipers labour, especially on the slow speed. It may pass on the high speed, but I think the wiper blades are to blame. They're "rolling" onto their sides as the motor tries to drag them across the windscreen, so hopefully new ones will have things working better.

A kind chap on ebay has sent us a pair of 4 pot calipers with a broken mounting lug for the cost of postage. Hopefully the pistons will be in better condition that the current ones so we can rebuild our calipers.

A local exhaust place managed to source a Y piece for us which is waiting fitting (needed some bolts). The holey downpipes have been replaced with secondhand ones. Two studs sheared on one of the manifolds... We ground them off flush, drilled through and put some nuts and bolts in. We only had M6 to hand but it tightened up nicely. If they're not up the job then it won't take long to pop and M8 in.

Of the three(!) rear boxes two are fine, but the one that goes over the axle is stuffed. The exhaust place is currently locating a replacement.

That's all really, hopefully get the brakes rebuilt and bled this weekend and ifthe exhuast turns up then fit that. It'll be ready for its MOT then. Although I'd like to screw around with the EFI system a little first as it's not quite right. it idles high (1000-1500rpm) and the idle adjustment screw doesn't do much, it hunts when cold (common but not right) and the throttle might be hanging up as it doesn't always go back to the same idle speed when blipped. I've got a .PDF detailing about 20 items to check, I'll hopefully work my way through soon and get her running near to spot-on.

mach1rob · Post by **mach1rob** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 11:52 pm

Good to hear she's coming on well after the set back

If all else fails on rotton box, could you not just get a straight pipe in there? Plus it'd sound a bit meatier

Squaddiemodo · Post by **Squaddiemodo** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:21 am

sounding good buddy

get some scaffold pipe on the exhaust you know you want to lol

mach1rob · Post by **mach1rob** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 11:16 am

Squaddiemodo wrote:sounding good buddy

get some scaffold pipe on the exhaust you know you want to lol

Gah! The chav's coming out in you again! Scaffold pole

Get a bit of proper pipe, friendly exhaust place usually has a skip of scrap you can wade through

Post by **Punx0r** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 1:01 pm

That might be an option... It'd need 4 curves in it to go up and over the axle but would be doable. The exhaust place did say the rear boxes are available no probs so should have one soon (they had to hunt about for a Y piece). Rimmer bros don't seem to stock either...

hoody · Post by **hoody** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:46 am

if i remember right the casing of the air flow meter used to crack and let dampness in causing idle problems used to see loads of them wrapped in all sorts of tape,poly bags.might be worth having a look mate as im sure that was one of the most common probs on the efi setup.keep up the good work

Post by **Punx0r** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:10 pm

Thanks mate, I'll have a look for that when it comes to fiddling with the lump.

I used the original pipes from each end of the rusted exhaust box (plenty of life left in them) and cut a straight piece of pipe from the old Y-piece, did some jiggery-pokery and make it all it together. I bought some clamps and exhaust wrap to help seal it all up. Just needs offering up to the rest of the system, adjusting and permanently fitting it together. It can be fitted so that the straight pipe goes through the old box, allowing the hangers to be used in necessary. That should really confuse the MOT man

We also removed all four wheels to take them to the tyre fitters to at least check them and reseal a couple that keep going down. Apparently, although most of them looked fine (good tread, not badly cracked), most were about 10 years old, so all four were replaced for Â£188, which isn't too bad. The spare (which had a leaky valve) was fitted with an inner tube!

I can't believe how much hassle it is to remove all four wheels from a car. You'd think that with a trolley jack and four axle stands it'd be easy... The problem was that once the front was on stands, jacking up the back pulls the car and the axle stands start tipping over... Eventually managed it by putting a strong pallet and blocks of wood under the rear sill jacking points and then jacking up the front and fitting stands.

I fitted new wiper blades which didn't help the slow wipers at all (they wouldn't move on slow wipe). I poked about with the wiring and noticed quite a voltage drop to the motor. I added a temporary extra earth which didn't help, but adding a 12v feed from the battery did help, although it still seemed a little laboured on fast wipe. The motor was drawing what seemed like quite a lot of current, and after about a minute it was getting warm to the touch. So I don't think it's a power supply problem, but the motor is playing up.

I removed the motor (again), the linkages were free, the gearbox was in good shape and well greased, the motor brushes were in very good condition, the only thing I could find to do was clean up the comutator, which was rather tarnished. This could make a difference, but that much, I don't know. I'll have to see when it's refitted.

Both front calipers have been stripped cleaned and new seals fitted. One is complete with pistons and is ready to fit, the other is waiting for me to fetch the pistons out of a spare caliper. As they're not all corroded like the ones in ours were. It's a case of best of not a great lot. If it doesn't work then a neighbour mechanic says there's a local company that sells recon calipers cheap, which would be worth a look into.

There's three bleed nipples on each caliper. The rear brakes have one nipple between them. Bleeding may be fun. I think it's time to make a vacuum bleeder.

Getting there slowly, I hope to have the brakes and exhaust on by the weekend. We still need to change the gearbox and diff oil.

Squaddiemodo · Post by **Squaddiemodo** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:21 am

IIRC the front calipers are the same as what is on the MK1 LR discovery, I may be wrong but i am sure i read on a LR forum of someone using SD1 calipers on his disco.

it reminded me because the disco calipers also had 3 bleed nipples

If they look anything like this

These are disco 1 calipers Â£56 + vat new from paddockspares.co.uk

paul888 · Post by **paul888** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:57 am

Sounds lovely always wanted something with the rover V8 in , p5 p6 sd1 etc..

Almost bought a xr4i with a twin plenum in a few years ago ..

Good luck with all the work ..

Post by **Punx0r** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:09 pm

paul888 wrote:Almost bought a xr4i with a twin plenum in a few years ago ..

You should have done

Squaddie, they look exactly like the SD1 ones buddy

Squaddiemodo · Post by **Squaddiemodo** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 5:26 pm

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DISCOVE ... iston.html

try this link

its the piston for above caliper, do some research see if they would fit

I would see if you can go to a landy specialist and see if he has a spare front caliper knocking around that you can compare to

Post by **Punx0r** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:51 pm

Â£3.10! They're 10quid from Rimmers, they look like the ones too... If the current brakes start taking a leak brakefluid everywhere then this info will come in very handy

Post by **Punx0r** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 3:59 pm

Thought I'd better update this

The brakes are all bled now, it took an ezee-bleed and 2 litres of brake fluid to get all the air (system was empty) and crap out. The pedal isa bit odd as the first few inches of travel are very slack, then it gets firm very quickly. The brakes are solid, the pedal doesn't slowly sink and there's no leaks, so that's good

I spent ages fitting the exhaust, which is an artful piece of bodgery. I also found a hole in the can of the backbox so wrapped that up with exhaust bandage. Despite improvised sleeve joints and exhaust paste galore it doesn't leak! Hopefully the joints won't crack the first time the car hits a speedbump/pothole... The car is much quieter on idle now, but still nice and noisey when revved

I refitted the front wiper assembly and it worked better (but still not quite right) for about a minute and then returned to it's before state of sluggish shiteness

I somehow also managed to loose the intermitent wipe function aswell, just get continous fast instead. I suspect thge park switch wasn't aligned quite right. I bought another wiper assembly from the scrappy today for a tenner, hopefully it will be better. I did take a battery with me to test the wipers, but the car had no wiper arms fitted, so it's all guesses atm.

The car hadn't been started for about a month, and the fuel pump was playing dead

The feed from the car had a good 12v, but there wasn't enough juice to run the pump. So I ran it directly off of a small 12v battery and got the car running for a few minutes. After this, the pump ran happily from it's proper power supply. I'm hoping that it's just a minor amount of sludge from the fuel tank partially blocking the pump. Hopefully once the car is being used properly it'll clear the system out.

Anyway, I did move the car backwards and forwards about 20ft, which the first time it's moved under it's own steam for many years

The engine was idling low and stalling when cold and then idling high when hot, so it definitely needs some maintainence.

Squaddiemodo · Post by **Squaddiemodo** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:15 pm

Sounds good mate

, just sounds like a timing issue now

Post by **Punx0r** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:59 pm

I do think the timing needs checking (I'll get dad to do that as it's more his ind of era

) but it does start very easily so I wouldn't be surprised if it was close enough.

When you blip the throttle (when hot) the revs usually don't settle back to the same point, so the throttle body needs cleaning and checking for hang-ups/adjusting. Then there's a myriad of vaccuum leak tests to do, extra air valve operation (cold start), engine breathers, CTS, etc. It's ripe for fiddling but a bit complex seeming. Apparently the engine wiring looms are notorious for problems, I hope it won't get to that...

It's coming along slowly anyway.

Leo · Post by **Leo** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 6:03 pm

Wow, somehow I missed this thread! A great read, all the best with the next stage

mach1rob · Post by **mach1rob** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 7:45 pm

Bout time we had an update, glad to hear its still progressing in the right direction

malcolm_durant · Post by **malcolm_durant** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 11:07 pm

Mmmmm...V8..!!!

Post by **Punx0r** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 8:41 pm

Time for a small update...

The close to freezing night time temperatures jogged my memory earlier this week - the cooling system on the SD1 has been drained and refilled twice with only plain tap water, leaving only a residue amount of antifreeze in the system. The plan was to check for leaks and proper operation of the waterpump before refilling with a proper antifreeze solution.

So this led to some night time mechanics by torchlight after work one night. It was simple enough to drain off 2 litres of coolant and replacing it with antifreeze. The engine needed starting to get the thermostat open and the antifreeze properly circulated.

As expected, the fuel pump wouldn't run under its own steam which meant jacking the car up, unplugging the pump and running it directly from the small 12v battery. The bodywork on the SD1 really is quite low. With my nice lean frame I can squeeze underneath my 800 and quite a few other cars without a jack.

I have worked out why this problem with the fuel pump occurs - the pump is powered through a ballast resistor to limit the current going to it. This doesn't provide enough oomph to clear any crud and the pump stalls.

The car still idled low when cold and high when hot.

This weekend I swapped the wiper motor/mechanism for the one from the scrappy and it actually made the wipers worse! I've spent ages on google trying to find some info, but haven't turned anything up yet. This must be a common problem?!

I also started debugging the EFI system. I cleaned/cleared the breather system and idle speed screw pathway, no major problems. I checked the CTS resistance when hot and it was spot on (250ohms).

The voltage from the throttle potentiometer was off - 170mv at rest when it should have been 320, so I adjusted this. The output is a little unstable and changes if you wiggle the wiring where it enters the unit. Also full scale deflection only measured 3.3v when it should be closer to 4.3v. I think it will do for now. A new replacement unit is Â£190 from Rimmers! Apparently they can be repaired without a common variable resistor, but I have yet to find any info about it.

I also set the CO/mixture screw on the airflow meter. It should be 2.5 turns from fully wound in - it was at 4.5turns so someone had obviously been messing with it, so I returned it to normal.

Starting the car gave a 900rpm idle which was a little lumpy for the first few seconds but smoothed out. When hot this rose to 1500rpm so I twiddled the idle speed screw and got it to a nice steady 800rpm.

Blipping the throttle made the revs stick at 1800 rpm and even a restart wouldn;'t bring it back below 1500rpm

So next job is to strip and clean the throttle body

SimonBurges · Post by **SimonBurges** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:17 pm

This wasn't you was it? OK, obviously not as that would imply you were fully mobile! The original e-bay picture is no longer there by the way. Saw this in a Tesco car-park in Ashford in August:

dave_d · Post by **dave_d** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:55 pm

Ay, why you got my car in your signature lol!!!

Seems mad seeing that!

Post by **Punx0r** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:42 pm

Nah, mine's silver, and not mobile yet

I'll have to take a few photos

calibrax · Post by **calibrax** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:47 pm

re your wiper problem... tried this?

Post by **Punx0r** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:35 pm

Unfortunately I've already tried most of the suggested in that thread.

I do have a voltage drop to the motor though - I measured 8v the other day when the wipers actually stopped mid-wipe. I'm going to add some wiring and power the motor in place straight from a 12v battery and see if there's a problem with the power feed. If so, then the wiring fun begins

Post by **Punx0r** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:39 pm

Running the wipers straight from a battery seems to work ok(ish). I think I was only getting normal speed though. I did try putting 12v on two of the positive wires and didn't get anything extra.

With the standard wiring and the engine running the fast setting produces and almost acceptable wipe on high-speed. Seeing 11-12v at the motor. Intermitant, normal-speed and wash/wipe have now stopped working though (0v to motor). I've broken something...

Fitted the new exhaust middle section. I took a picture on my phone which doesn't show that much but what the hell:

At least that's all sorted now.

I also removed the plenum/throttle body and spent some time with thinners, carb cleaner, washing up liquid and a tooth brush cleaning junk out of the throttle. It was slightly sticky when opening. The finished product operated smoothly without sticking and was almost water-tight (drip about every second). I also cleaned out the idle speed adjustment port and screw.

Refitting to the car didn't seem to make much odd with the idle, it still liked to sit at 2000rpm and the idle speed screw seems to have less effect now.

The airgap for the distributor is non-adjustable and Haynes just specifies a minimum of 6 thou. It's currently 20 thou, so who knows if that's good or bad.

We checked the timing with a strobe and it was way off. The markers on the crank pulley weren't even in sight. A twist of the distributor got the engine speed down and the markers in sight. A combination of messing with the throttle stop and idle screw reduced the idle to a stable 1200rpm, which according to haynes should be 8-10 BTDC (vac off). Vac on or off made bugger all difference and we got it to 8 degrees. Sucking on the vac pipe did affect the timing though, so it does work.

Haynes reckons that the timing with the vac on should be 6 degrees at 600 rpm - which is well below the engines natural rated idle speed of 850rpm. So go figure. It also says that static timing should be 6 degrees. Quite how you're supposed to check this on an engine that doesn't have points, I have no idea, and of course haynes doesn't explain

The engine now likes idling at 1200rpm and if you blip the throttle it will -slowly- return to this every time. Any attempts to adjust it below this with the idle screw will make it stall.

Something isn't right. At some point we pulled off the hose that runs from the idle screw - throttle plate bypass - to the plenum. This creates a big vacuum leak and should (AFAIK) make the idle shoot up as you'd expect. Nothing doing, it drops and stalls! Perhaps it's running lean and the extra air leans the mixture right out and kills it? That'd make sense if the plugs weren't black...

The throttle pot is also practically fubar. Wiggle the wire and you'll see anywhere from 0v to 1v. it's suposed to be 0.325v.

hoody · Post by **hoody** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:47 pm

do you know anyone with a similair car as it sounds like the air flow meter could be giving you problems,as i said before it was the weak spot of that injection system.pity your not near as i could probably borrow my mates to let you try

Post by **Punx0r** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 11:14 pm

TBH it looks fine, but that doesn't exactly prove much

There's a couple more things I can do like a thorough check for vac leaks and I think I'll try screwing with the throttle pot while the engine is running to see if it's introducing any errors.

It will be going for its MOT soon at a local garage, and the owner used to own an SD1, so if what we can do at home fails, his more expert eye may come to the rescue.

The gearbox oil has also been topped up, but the drain plug has since started dripping. So we'll drain the lot at some point and replace the washer on the drain plug.

The car will drive at the moment, there's nothing massively wrong with it. It can be a bit keen to stall though, and I'm not entirely sure it'll pass emissions. So it's just teething really...

Post by **Punx0r** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:45 pm

I haven't updated this for a while, but things have been ticking along gradually. The car is booked in for an MOT at the end of the month

I found a battery in the back of the garage - it was removed from my mum's 1990 1.3 escort about 4 years ago after. It was almost new at the time and despite the storage it's still in excellent health, and despite it's dinky size it'll turn the V8 over without fuss.

The problem was that the battery terminals were the wrong type, and the wrong way round, so the cables on the car wouldn't reach. This was solved with some spare 4 awg earth cable, some 15mm copper pipe fittings and a fair amount of electrical tape. Bodgetastic, but it works

I also made up a battery clamp from M6 threaded rod and a piece of steel angle. The original was missing.

The wipers now work on all settings. They're a bit slow, but it'll do. I ended up having to removed, open and clean the stalk switch (had to drill it open), and then clean an electrical connector inside the instrument cluster where the intermintant relay is connected. The problem is that all the dash wiring and stalk switch carry the full operating current of the motor

The car also starts on command now! I located the fuel pump ballast resistor (under passenger side dash) and tested the voltage in/out without the engine running - 9v in, 4v out and a stalled fuel pump. I replaced the resistor with a 15A fuse and jobs a good-un

I'll have to leave a little note in the fusebox for any subsequent owners... I still think there's an issue with sediment/gunge in the fuel. Because after standing for 2 weeks when the pump was run, it surged for about 30 seconds before clearing itself and running smoothly.

Also, the fuel pump fitted is an aftermarket Facet unit rated at 12v. The ballast resistor drops the voltage to the original pump to around 9v. This may be a non-starter with an aftermarket pump...

I also found some very helpful information on the SD1 forum about repairing the throttle position sensor. In the end a good clean up inside with abrasive and switch cleaner did the job, but the information on getting it apart was very helpful. I also noticed that tightening the TPS mounting screws distorted the unit and changed the output reading. So Ive left the screws semi-slack, and it works ok now. No more throttle hang-ups

It also doesn't stall when you try to pull away.

Some adjustment of the throttle stop screw has gotten a steady idle. It just needs the air bleed screw fine tuning now to establish a nice 750rpm hot idle.

I also replaced the gas struts which hold up the tailgate - so that it doesn't fall on your head anymore. You wouldn't believe the strain that's put on the mounting points, which are secured with two small screws. I could budge either of the struts using my full body weight...

The gearbox also stopped leaking oil and only lost 50-100ml of oil. It'll be ok for now. Once the car is road legal and the weather's a bit cheerier it'l go up on the ramps and change the lot.

It's general tidying up now - the front splitter/air dam that hangs under the bumper needs repairing and reattaching. It's mae of fibreglass and one of the two mounting brackets has been torn off. Some fibreglass matting and resin has been purchased along with a steel bracket from B&Q - that's tomorrows job.

I also want to get the currently non-functional petrol gauge working too - I think it'll be important in this car... I can't wait to use the trip computer too - instant and average MPG readout

One of the rear electric windows also jammed in the open position. The motor appeared dead and it turned out to be stuck brushes. A few swift whacks with a rubber mallet has it working again and mechanism has been greased up. It works much better than the other three windows now - might have to do all those too...

If I had the money to invest in this car one of the first things it would get is a full stainless exhaust system with tubular manifolds. I think it would make a real difference to performance and would sound awesome. The standard exhaust is a bit too quiet!

Finally, here's a picture of the cat who's come to "help". Whenever any ofus are working on a car she always comes and sits in/under/on the car close to where you're working. She knows better than to pester you, but either sits and watches, or curls up the footwell or boot and goes to sleep

bjrespect · Post by **bjrespect** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:50 pm

yep it needs decating

Post by **Punx0r** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:25 pm

lol

This car is finally a runner!

The engine had more than a couple of problems:

The over-run valve was full of crap and stuck partially open. This valve is only supposed to open under very high vacuum (over-run) to stop the exhaust popping due to the mixture going rich. The extra air that it was allowing in was screwing up the mixture.

The ignition amplifer was on its way out giving a violent missfire after a couple of mins of driving. It wasn't until it was nearly completely failed that I realised what the cause was. It started missing consistantly at idle which made the rev counter bounce from 0-1000rpm, just like a dodgy crank sensor on MEMS. The car would also sometimes cut out as the ECU thought the engine had stopped if the signal from the dissy (via the amplifer) dissapeared for too long.

Fuel starvation caused by a blockage at the tank and fuel filter. This was hard to spot as fuel delivery into a saucepan at the engine bay was still good. Measuring the fuel pressure when stationary also showed no problems. It was only when we took the car out for a drive with the gauge connected up (ghetto stylee) that the problem became apparent. Pressure on full throttle should be 36-38psi. As the revs climbed fuel pressure fell, at about 18psi you got the hesitation followed by missfire, it went as low as 15psi at one point.

Spark plug colour gave away nothing at any point which really didn't help

I also swapped the ECU, distributor and airflow meter for working landrover units (dissy isn't quite the same but can be made to fit) out of desperation along the way without success. I also made a bunch of continuity tests to the ECU multiplug from all the engine sensors, substituted the CTS for resistors etc.

The problem with the fuel tank was the it was rusty inside and this (along with blue thread?!) had made its way to the fuel pump and blocked the inlet strainer. The standard pump doesn't have a strainer, thank goodness this one did. The tank was removed and drained. The internal strainer had come apart.

The return pipe also became blocked after the tank has been removed, and 8 bar of air wouldn't shift it. So it had to be rodded with various thicknesses of wire, thinners, air and vacuum. The pipes inside the tank are 2-3ft long and go through several 90* bends before reaching the swirl pot. A handful of large gravel was added to the tank along with some old petrol, and the tank vigourously shaken to dislodge the rust from he inside. This was repeated, along with rinses until the petrol that ran out was mostly clean (this took some time).

A fuel filter with large enough fittings was not available to fit between the tank and fuel pump, so the tank was refitted without a filter. After this the car ran greate for 2-3 miles before reverting to it's previous state. boo. So the pump was removed again to find the inlet strainer had aquired a small amount of rust already along with more blue thread?! The engine bay fuel filter was fished out of the bin, confirmed to be unblocked, and pieces of poly pipe used to adapt the smaller fittings to the pump pipe.

This resulted in the car running great, but the large (4" diameter) filter under the bodywork was a serious liability for ground clearence. This was confirmed when it caught a very small (less than an inch high) kerb when manuvering the car up a small ramp to get it into its car parking space.

A smaller filter was obtained and the pipework was extended to tuck the filter up in the transmission tunnel.

I'm happy that the old tank could be saved and aside form the internal corrosion from years standing it's very solid and still has much of its original paint. A replacement would also have been Â£200 from Rimmers...

The problem with no fuel delivery after standing for a long time was cured by swapping the fuel pump ballast resistor (which delivers 9v to the 12v pump) for a fuse. This may not be necessary now the tank is in better condition.

This is as the car now stands and can be driven as and when. It really needs the front air dam repairing (needs a mounting bracket) and attaching. The passenger front window switch doesn't work. I haven't messed with the rear windows incase the passenger one gets stuck like the drivers rear one did.

The electric passenger mirror also doesn't tilt up/down. Side to side is ok. I'm not looking forward to this because all movement is driven by a single motor with a solenoid controlled clutch to change direction!

The interior needs clearning, mostly the headlining that as grease on it... It needs some tidying up inside, like the D pillars recovering as the fabric is torn.

Then there's the small matter of the bodywork...

But, at least I can now get some enjoyment out of it!

Post by **Punx0r** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:29 pm

I forgot to add, I also changed the oil because it had been in there for the best art of a year despite only covering a handful of miles. It was also constantly dripping out of the sump plug (it's a rover).

I drained the oil and tilted the car to stop it dripping. I cleaned the plug, hole and the copper washer. A replacement copper washer wasn't easily available so I heated the old one and let it cool naturally to soften it, then sanded it clean. I applied blue hylomar everywhere and did the plug up tight. It still fecking leaks! Admitedly not as fast now though.

Next time the plug is out I'm going to wrap a logger load of teflon tape around the threads...

Anthonyti · Post by **Anthonyti** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:03 pm

how's this compare to you're tubby in terms of grin factor? and long term pleasure?

Post by **Punx0r** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:02 pm

I've not yet driven it in anger, I'll give it a good run when I've got some spare time on a good late evening when the roads are reasonably quiet. Grin factor should be high due to the tail action. This is my first bash in a RWD car on the road and I'm determined not to crash it by not working up steadily to the whole power oversteer thingy.

Long term enjoyment: It's only been a long term pain in the backside so far

I've also remembered that the heater controls are borked. The slidey lever won't go in some locations and you can only get fan speed 2 by holding the lever, let go and it springs back to 1 - which does buggerall.

Rovertech 2.0

My new toy

Vitesse?